Think I was 10 yrs old when I first saw the movie Point Break and thought surfing was the coolest thing I had ever seen and was disappointed that I didn't live near an ocean to try it. Over the years, i always saw surf videos from time to time or in movies and the desire to try it still gnawed at me.
After getting into stand up paddleboarding, I discovered river surfing and how to surf these manmade whitewater features on paddleboards. Then I saw that on the right river wave, it could be surfed on actual short surfboard and recently fell in love with shortboarding these waves that are being newly built all over the country. Im only sad that I am just now discovering this love for the sport, but thankful I'm now able to surf anywhere there's a wave.
When I say surfing is life, not just a metaphor. In the last few months, it's taught me a lot. Somedays you get worked but you keep at it. After a good ride, there's a unique high you get and the feeling is overwhelming. The feeling like you are home and completely in your element. When you're on the wave, you're not thinking about work, bills, or that girl that's got your heart all twisted up at the moment. Everything just gets pushed back because you are completely in the present moment and nothing else matters. Your face hurts from smiling, legs are jello, stomach is craving food, you feel like you got nothing left but it's so much fun you keep getting back in the line up for "1 more last ride."
I've seen that river surfing is one of the few sports where everyone you are with is pushing each other, giving tips, cheering each other on, complimenting each other after a good ride. I often think why the hell aren't we doing more of that in everyday life. Encouraging each other, building people up, instead of tearing them down.
I tend to always feel like i can take on anything life has to throw at me after a good surf session. Often when you first standup, you have got to move. Carve, pump, paddle, and push yourself as hard as you can trying to make the most of that ride and not get flushed. You'll fall off, maybe take a hard swim in the current but swim out into the eddy and paddle back into that line up for more before you've even had a chance to catch your breath! I just want to tackle life in that exact same manner. Surfing is damn spiritual and nothing else is quite like it.